Since the start of the year, I’ve been a regular at my local farmers’ market. It is a sheer delight. The range of vegetables now grown on the islands is mind blowing. As a eulogy to Malta’s farmers, I wrote an article for this month’s Il-Bizzilla (‘Lace’), the in-flight magazine of Air Malta. You can read it here in PDF. I’ve posted up a mere handful of my favourite photos from the day I went down, notebook, pen and camera in hand, not just basket. I’ve started with hands – deep brown, tanned, earthy, and knarled – from young farmer to older, the hands tell stories all by themselves.
The colours I can reproduce, but the banter, and hawk-eyedness of my fellow shoppers I can’t quite capture visually. You have to be there to hear the chat, see the discerning eyes case the mass of stalls to find the very one with the best of the crop. I’ve worked out a bit of a routine now; I buy general veg from one stall, strawberries from another, eggs from yet another, honey from a certain beekeeper and so on.
This is not a one-shop-fits-all approach as you’d get in supermarket shopping. You need to work out which farmer has the best, of say, strawberries, that week. It can depend on which part of the islands they farm. Sun doesn’t shine equally all over Malta, despite the country’s weeny size. My home town, just inland from the cliffs, tends to get a cloudier micro climate than the lower lying resort towns on the other side of the island. Honey from Mellieha won’t be the same as honey from Fawwara. Some flowers flower earlier here and later there and vice versa. The prevailing winds that blast Malta nearly all year round also make a difference.
The heaps of greens, hues and textures of all kinds, and the rainbow of veg and fruit around right now in early spring, is something to behold. I make Tuesdays my regular market stop day. In 15 minutes, I stagger back to the car, weighed down with produce. Then, there’s just the small matter of what to make with it all! I don’t shop with recipes in mind; I cook according to what’s on my Malta market this week. For a taste of the market, read my article ‘Eat a Rainbow’ and learn a little about what goes on and how my fellow shoppers inspire me.
All images © Liz Ayling 2013
Ta’ Qali Farmers’ Market is on Tuesday and Saturday mornings from early til around noon. Go first thing for pick of the best; go later and get some throw-away bargains on veg. It’s incredibly good value whatever time you go though.
Just discovered your blog. Love it. Makes me laugh as life so similar (except we live in the rainy North West of England). Will follow with interest. Steff
Hi Steph,
Thanks for beaming in. I can see from your blog you’ve Maltese connections – family or just holidaying here? I hope my photos will ‘warm you up’ in the N.W. of the UK. Mind you, it’s bitterly cold here right now as I write, though we had a freak summer weekend last week with people in bikinis swimming. Fickle spring weather here too. Though summer is, well, always summer in this part of the world! Following your blog too!
Great blog and cool photos, Liz! Your writing is wonderful! I love reading everything from your websites!
I have never been to this market. Now I really want to check it out! We’ve just came back from Thailand and I was enjoying similar vegetable markets over there, they always inspire me to cook! Will follow your blog and try out some of your recipes 🙂
Hi Alyona,
Thanks for the kind comments on the blog! I heard from Jean that you did a cooking course in Thailand. You’re right, loads here to get your hands on to whet the appetite! I marvel at the variety at the farmers’ market. Truly inspiring and incredible for Malta, with its dry climate and short supply of fields! Glad you’ve joined me at Red B – thanks!
Would you happen to know if any of the farmers grow organic?
Lisa,
I don’t think any at the farmers’ market would claim to be organic (according to the strict regulations), however the one I buy from does make a point of using far fewer chemicals and practising as near as possible, with some veg and fruit, an organic regime. If you do want organic, again without official certification but definitely grown without any chemicals, try Villa Bologna – see my other post ‘Veggies at the Villa‘ for more info on how to buy etc. The villa gardeners can advise you what’s in season and growing well if you give them a call – helps plan your trip over to Attard and your shopping.
Brilliant – thank you!
So wonderfully captivating and fabulous writing and photography. .im hooked. Well done liz. Keep it coming.
Thanks Nicola, glad you like the blog. A bit of an eclectic bunch of work. I am trying to base it on the mid-Med lifestyle around me. More markets to come when I can get up early enough (5.30!) to beat the crowds. Fish market next up!
Fantastic photos Liz. Beautiful!
You write very well too! Interesting piece which I enjoyed reading.
Thanks Eric, very kind. Lovely to touch base after so long. This is my hobby space when corporate writing allows, which is not as often as I’d like! Hope you make it to the Med more often to your place in the sun in Spain, which must be very similar to Malta.
Hi Liz
I am a lost and passionate baker from Australia, my father was born in Malta in 1931 and I’m looking for an area and Market place to love my sourdough breads. I love what I do and need some help to decide if I could move my family from Australia to Malta.
Please help.
Thank you
Chris Mizzi